Tricky's Workshop

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Heroic Autobot
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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Tue Apr 05, 2016 4:43 pm

Springer done.
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Heroic Autobot
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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Tue Apr 05, 2016 4:55 pm

Bot mode.
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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby Thatotherguy » Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:32 pm

Just went through this entire thread. Your work is absolutely amazing, keep up the good stuff.

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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Sun May 01, 2016 5:10 pm

Hey thanks Guy, I'll be uploading some CW Devastator pics in the next week or so, my first "commission" 8)

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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Fri May 06, 2016 2:09 am

Alrighty, so a guy I met through work bought CW Devastator while he was overseas and has made me a reasonable offer to paint it, purely in gestalt mode (thank you :pray: )

So I'll post up some pics along the way with descriptions if anyone wants to have a go. Probably nothing new but aaaaaanyway...

Used a sheet or two of 1500 grit sand paper which I usually tear about 1-2 inch pieces and sand every surface I can get to. If you use rougher sandpaper (like 1000 grit) just be careful you don't sand away any mold detail.

Do this in good light and hold it against the light as you go so you can see the plastic go from gloss to a really dull flat/matte finish, making sure the primer coat is going to get the best contact possible. All other coats will rely on this first coat so never skimp on the prep. You can fold the sandpaper in half to get a stiffer edge for getting into cracks and corners. Any clear glass windows you want to leave clear need to be masked off before this stage, obviously for paint stage but also to protect from scuffing during sanding. Of course Devy doesn't have any I just thought it was worth mentioning.

When you sand try not to go back and forth too much, you can't eat away much with 1500 grit but circular motions always get the most consistent finish for the prime coat.

So at this stage he's sanded and ready for the dremel to lightly grind some edges and create some wear. I've also masked the arm pegs on his chest so the paint wont gum up the connection making it hard to separate.

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Heroic Autobot
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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Fri May 06, 2016 2:38 am

Dremel done and have super glued sand for some cool texture. I just use the cheap $2.50 per 10 pack chinese shop super glue, no need for expensive stuff here.

I got some sand from the beach and put it in a tupperware type cake container, over which I would pour the sand on him once the glue was on.

Then I used a scrap piece of plastic blister to squeeze some glue into and a few different things to apply it to him like an old thin paint brush and a paper clip to get into the cracks. Small sections at a time, get it along the cracks and dab at it and just imagine where the dirt and concrete would probably be in real life.

Once applied get the sand straight into it, just pile it on, leave it for a minute then brush away the excess. Any that doesn't stick will be washed away before the prime coat, and it's important that all the potentially loose sand comes off before prime coat cos if it comes off once painted it will show the original plastic color underneath.

Still a bit more to go I think...

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Heroic Autobot
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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Fri May 06, 2016 3:21 am

Put more sand on, gave him a good wash with warm soapy water, dried and masked wheels off (which I'll paint by hand later), ready for prime coat.


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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Fri May 06, 2016 7:55 pm

Primer I use is Citadel Chaos Black, awesome quality primer, really expensive at around $30 from Toyworld but well worth it, made for plastic and super fine flat finish great for dry-brushing. I usually get quite a few paint jobs primed with a can but this Dev needed a whole can by the time I got all the nooks and crannys done.

I use a hair dryer for between coats, that way it's only a few minutes between coats.

1st coat: Just dust it very lightly and quick blow dry for a minute, light coats should dry to touch with within 20 - 30 secs.

2nd coat same again but aim for nooks and crannys, most will get on the flat surfaces anyway but a few times I've put some decent coats on only to notice I missed some small cracks and it's hard to aim for small places with a spray can without overdoing it and getting paint runs on the flat parts.

3rd and 4th coats same again pretty much but now you have a solid paint adherence to the plastic so you can do 1 or 2 wetter coats and you should be done, just repeat until you have good coverage and no original plastic coming through anywhere.

The primer color will depend on how bright you want the colors to be, I use black for a few reasons. Once primed you can mask off any bit's you want to dry-brush silver without having to hand paint in the black after you put the next color down. I also prefer the contrast it makes, when you put your main color down it's less likely to get in the cracks and that looks good having dark cracks and corners, if you were to use grey or white then that's a lot of coats to get rid of that primer color AND THEN you have to go and darken up the cracks with black wash anyway to make it look good.

BUT, painting colors over black sucks (unless you want dark colors).

So what I do is once it's primed black and dried (and of course masked off any parts I want kept black) I'll go over and dust it lightly with white until it looks light grey, and then once more to highlight. This means you still get a lighter overall prime coat, just with a little more contrast of the darker under coat in the corners. I use an airbrush for this part as it give's me a lot more control over where the paint lands.


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Now I've masked what I want to keep black, it's time for the blast of white then first color to go down...

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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby Liberator » Sat May 07, 2016 1:23 am

looks cool and a lot of hard work
I wish I had the patience to Kit Bash , Im too busy to keep still in one place,
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Heroic Autobot
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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Sat May 07, 2016 8:23 pm

Liberator wrote:looks cool and a lot of hard work
I wish I had the patience to Kit Bash , Im too busy to keep still in one place,


Thanks man!

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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Sat May 07, 2016 8:30 pm

Crappy phone pics, but metallic lime green coat on, a few bits left unpainted for purple later. Will mix the green with yellow now and highlight.

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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby MAULER666 » Sun May 08, 2016 5:32 pm

Geez even with the initial coats and masking tape it looks better than the original (sorry lads REALLY not a fan of that devy) can't wait to see more!
My list of gimmees:
G1 Vortex
G2 Snarl
G1 Fireflight

Heroic Autobot
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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Sun May 08, 2016 8:17 pm

MAULER666 wrote:Geez even with the initial coats and masking tape it looks better than the original (sorry lads REALLY not a fan of that devy) can't wait to see more!


Thanks Mauler! Yea the original colour was migraine material!

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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Sun May 08, 2016 8:23 pm

New mix of green to highlight, as I said earlier it's 1/1 ratio lime green and metellic yellow. Light coat with a few blasts to lighten up random spots.

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Re: Tricky's Workshop

Postby TrickyFingersNZ » Sun May 08, 2016 8:29 pm

Purple mixed and sprayed. Quite dark but I like it, just hope "customer" does. Next I'm gonna mask off his hips and give him a purple wanger.

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